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Chef Bailey’s version of Gumbo takes a cue from heralded Creole chef Leah Chase, the matriarch of Dooky Chase’s restaurant in New Orleans. Chase was known as much for her food and hospitality legacy as she was for feeding leaders of the American Civil Rights movement (along with modern-day American presidents like Barack Obama and George W. Bush). Chase popularized this dish during Lent, when many forgo meat; her Gumbo Z’Herbes was renowned for using nine different greens. In this recipe, you’ll char the okra rather than stew it in the pot, which is traditional. This lends a smoky flavor and chunky texture to the soup.