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As your sewing skills advance, you’ll be able to incorporate a variety of techniques with an array of different fabrics. One of the more challenging areas of sewing is the welt, which is a piece of fabric that binds the edges of the pocket opening in a garment.

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What Is a Welt Pocket?

A welt pocket is a sewn pocket that is topstitched in place on top of a garment. This pocket is often flat and sometimes includes a reinforced border along the edge of the fabric. Welt pockets come in different forms and styles. They can be functional or decorative, and add a fun or interesting detail to your fashion fabrics.

4 Types of Welt Pockets

Welt pockets come in many different sizes and styles, including:

  1. Single-welt pockets. These welt pockets can come with a folded welt or a separate welt. They appear flush against the garment, with a small, usually hidden opening.
  2. Double-welt pockets. Similar to the single welt pocket, double welt pockets can also use a folded or separate welt. However, the main difference is that this pocket uses two welts to create an opening rather than a single fabric strip.
  3. Faux-welt pocket. Also called a decorative welt pocket, these pockets are purely for decoration rather than functionality. Faux welt pockets can give a plain garment of clothing more texture and detail or enhance a silhouette.
  4. Zippered-welt pocket. If you prefer a more secure pocket, you can include a zippered-welt pocket instead, which has zipper teeth where the plain fabric edges would be located. The zipper can be hidden or exposed, depending on the style you choose.
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How to Make a Welt Pocket

If you’re new to the world of sewing welt pockets, you can start simply with a single welt by following the steps below:

  1. Apply fusible interfacing to the fabric. On the wrong side of the garment, apply a strip of interfacing behind where the pocket will be to reinforce the structure and form of the fabric. You can use hand-basting stitches to help see your welt opening (the top of the pocket) on the right side of the garment.