Narutomaki Recipe: How to Make Narutomaki Fish Cakes

Narutomaki is a type of kamaboko, or Japanese fish cake, that features a pink swirl in the center. Its name likely comes from the naturally occurring Naruto whirlpools located in the Naruto Strait between Shikoku and Awaji Island in Japan. Narutomaki is made from surimi (white fish paste) that’s been molded into a log and steamed. The pink spiral comes from dying half of the surimi with red food coloring and then rolling it into a cylinder.

Surimi means "minced meat," and it is made by washing pieces of non-oily fish (typically Alaska pollock or southern blue whiting), finely mincing the rinsed fish, and blending it with sugar. The rinsing process removes soluble proteins, giving the fish a chewier texture, while the sugar increases the fish's stability. This method was first developed in the days before refrigeration to preserve fish. Today, most of Japan's narutomaki is made in the city of Yaizu in Shizuoka Prefecture, also known for its bonito production.

Fish pastes have a long history in Japan. They existed as early as the Heian Period (794–1192), during which time fish paste was typically molded around a bamboo stick and cooked over a fire. This traditional preparation is known today as chikuwa.

Kamaboko, or a log of surimi molded on a wooden board, was a later invention, appearing at the end of the sixteenth century. It is likely that narutomaki was developed during the Edo Period (1600–1868) as one of several different styles of kamaboko.

Narutomaki has a chewy texture and mild flavor. It is similar to gefilte fish, but with a smoother, almost rubbery texture. Although it's made from fish, narutomaki does not taste very fishy due to the washing process.

Narutomaki is a popular topping for ramen noodle soup of all flavors (miso, shoyu, and shio, for example) because it adds a pop of color to an otherwise beige-leaning dish and compliments noodle textures. It's also commonly used as a topping for soba and udon noodles.